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 Post subject: Swapping the "lock" LEDs?
PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2007 3:05 am 
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So I have an Ice Legend 105 and I've just ordered off for a Fire. (Both are PS/2 interface).

One of the things that really bugs me is that on the Ice, the lock indicators are red - I see on the screenshots that on the Fire, they're blue.

How hard would it be once I have both keyboards to swap the LEDs so that the Ice has blue lock indicators and the Fire has red? I've opened up my Ice to clean it a couple of times, but never took it completely apart, so I didn't look at the backside of the circuit board in detail.

-Mykl


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2007 2:31 pm 
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This is from our lead engineer:
Quote:
Resistor values for a BLUE ICE 105 key keyboard w/ RED status LEDs:
R9, R10, R13 = 100 Ohms, 1/4W, 5%

Resistor values for a RED FIRE 105 key keyboard w/ blue status LEDs:
R9, R10, R13 = 330 Ohms, 1/4W, 5%

These values assume the current, voltage and optical characteristics of the TG3 LEDs. Results will vary with non-TG3 supplied LEDs and possibly could damage the electronics that drive these status LEDs.

Changing the status LEDs requires disassembling the keyboard, unsoldering and resoldering new components. LEDs are polarized devices and can be installed in one of two orientations; they will work installed in one orientation and won’t work in the other. The polarity of the red LEDs is opposite of the blue LEDs; so if you swap them, you need to rotate them 180 degrees before reinstalling them. I suggest trying one before doing all three.

To change the status LEDs from red to blue or vice-versa, use the component values shown above.

So if you want to install blue TG3 status LEDs on your blue ICE keyboard, R9-R11 should be 330 Ohms.
If you want to install red TG3 status LEDs on your red FIRE keyboard, R9-R11 should be 100 Ohms.

It is possible to change the LEDs without changing the resistor values, but then the brightness of the status LEDs won’t optimally track those LEDs used for backlighting the keyboard. With a USB interface, the reported current consumption data sent to host system may not match the actual current consumption.

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Deck Guy Adam
http://www.deckkeyboards.com - The best backlit keyboards on Earth
http://www.tg3electronics.com - Parent company of Deck, leaders in custom industrial keyboards


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 13, 2007 9:39 pm 
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Heh, that's a case of exactly the info I needed, but not quite the answer I was hoping for.

Thanks for the detailed info.

-Mykl


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 Post subject: Re: Swapping the "lock" LEDs?
PostPosted: Wed Dec 17, 2008 8:21 am 
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How about swapping the red status LED's on the Legend blue with the green LED's that can be purchased with the blank keyset? I had all of that in my shopping cart until I remembered about the different LED's and resistance and things. I also want to switch some of the blue ones into green ones in other areas. Just need to make sure I can before I order a ton of green LED's.

Thank you.


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 Post subject: Re: Swapping the "lock" LEDs?
PostPosted: Wed Dec 17, 2008 2:55 pm 
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See this from the above quote:
Quote:
So if you want to install blue TG3 status LEDs on your blue ICE keyboard, R9-R11 should be 330 Ohms.
If you want to install red TG3 status LEDs on your red FIRE keyboard, R9-R11 should be 100 Ohms.
The specs for our blue and green LEDs are extremely close and in most cases they are interchangeable. So if you want an Deck Legend - Ice and you want to put green LEDs in where there are red LEDs, you would want to change R9-R11 to 330 Ohm resistors (NOTE: I have not tested this personally to ensure good appearance but 330 Ohms should look fine).

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Deck Guy Adam
http://www.deckkeyboards.com - The best backlit keyboards on Earth
http://www.tg3electronics.com - Parent company of Deck, leaders in custom industrial keyboards


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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Wed May 29, 2013 11:15 am 
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DeckGuy Adam wrote:
This is from our lead engineer:
Quote:
Resistor values for a BLUE ICE 105 key keyboard w/ RED status LEDs:
R9, R10, R13 = 100 Ohms, 1/4W, 5%

Resistor values for a RED FIRE 105 key keyboard w/ blue status LEDs:
R9, R10, R13 = 330 Ohms, 1/4W, 5%

These values assume the current, voltage and optical characteristics of the TG3 LEDs. Results will vary with non-TG3 supplied LEDs and possibly could damage the electronics that drive these status LEDs.

Changing the status LEDs requires disassembling the keyboard, unsoldering and resoldering new components. LEDs are polarized devices and can be installed in one of two orientations; they will work installed in one orientation and won’t work in the other. The polarity of the red LEDs is opposite of the blue LEDs; so if you swap them, you need to rotate them 180 degrees before reinstalling them. I suggest trying one before doing all three.

To change the status LEDs from red to blue or vice-versa, use the component values shown above.

So if you want to install blue TG3 status LEDs on your blue ICE keyboard, R9-R11 should be 330 Ohms.
If you want to install red TG3 status LEDs on your red FIRE keyboard, R9-R11 should be 100 Ohms.

It is possible to change the LEDs without changing the resistor values, but then the brightness of the status LEDs won’t optimally track those LEDs used for backlighting the keyboard. With a USB interface, the reported current consumption data sent to host system may not match the actual current consumption.


I realize I am quoting a topic from 5 years ago but anyway. In the top of the post the engineer is speaking of resistors R9, R10 and R13. But later on he moves on to say R9-R11. Which is correct? I suppose it may be more clear when I open it up.


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 Post subject: Re: Swapping the "lock" LEDs?
PostPosted: Sat Jan 25, 2014 6:14 am 
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It is possible to change the LEDs without changing the resistor values, but then the brightness of the status LEDs won’t optimally track those LEDs used for backlighting the keyboard. With a USB interface, the reported current consumption data sent to host system may not match the actual current consumption.

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***jAn***


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 Post subject: Re: Swapping the "lock" LEDs?
PostPosted: Mon Feb 10, 2014 1:02 am 
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In the top of the post the engineer is speaking of resistors R9, R10 and R13. But later on he moves on to say R9-R11. Which is correct? I suppose it may be more clear when I open it up.

ESky 3in1


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